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唐代绞缬间色绵裙的修复保护与研究
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价格：CNY0.00
出版：北京 :北京服装学院 ,2023
载体形态：87页 :图 ;30cm
丛编：北京服装学院研究生学位论文
附注：历史学/文物与博物馆,民族服饰博物馆
简介：中国是世界上育蚕缫丝最早的国家，有着五千年丰富灿烂的纺织历史，然而纺织品文物属蛋白类有机质文物，出土纺织品极易受到各种微生物、地下水、埋藏环境等的污染、毁损，难以保存，曾经辉煌的中国丝织文化亟待保护传承。 本文以北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆馆藏唐代绞缬间色绵裙（馆藏编号MFB009746）为研究对象，对该文物采集基本信息，调研评估病害情况，进行科技检测分析，制定科学合理的修复方案。在修复过程中，秉持文物保护修复的“原真性原则”、“可识别性原则”、“可再处理原则”和“最小干预原则”，通过科技检测与传统修复技术相结合的保护修复方法，使其在外观、强度及保存状况上得到改善，典型病害得到有效治理，延缓劣化，并结合预防性保护原则对文物后续的存储、展陈方式提出合理性建议。 本次保护与研究主要以纺织品文物的修复实践与服饰文化研究相结合的研习思路，通过对馆藏唐间裙的保护修复，获得实物的一手数据，结合深入考察其形制结构、材质工艺、织染纹样等，为纺织品文物保护修复技术及间裙相关研究提供较为详实的参考信息。本文研究的间裙是指由两种及以上颜色形成间隔的女子裙装，是汉晋至隋唐时期典型的裙装之一。同时，本文还结合实证研究法、多重证据法和考古类型学等研究范式，从文献、图像和实物入手，分别从横向和纵向对比研究汉晋至隋唐时期间裙的演变发展，考察间裙裙长由短至长、条纹由宽至窄、色彩搭配变化的三种演变方式，对比归纳间裙的间色形成方式、两色及多色的颜色搭配与间裙实物结构等，进而解读间裙发展流行背后的风俗时尚与社会原因。简言之，隋唐时期间裙的兴盛是社会生产力发展和纺织染缬工艺进步的表现，是多民族文化交流融合的结果，也是人们的审美随时代发展的产物。 China is the earliest country in the world to breed silkworms and spin silk, with a rich and splendid textile history of five thousand years. However, textile relics are organic relics of protein, and excavated textiles are easily contaminated and damaged by various microorganisms, underground water, and burial environments, making them difficult to preserve. The once glorious Chinese silk culture urgently needs to be protected and inherited. This paper takes the tie-dyed Jianqun filled with silk floss in Tang dynasty (MFB009746) in the National Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology as the research object, collects basic information of the artifact, investigates and evaluates its condition, conducts technological detection and analysis, and formulates a scientifically reasonable restoration plan. In the restoration process, adhering to the principles of "authenticity, recognizability, reprocessability, and minimal intervention" for the protection and restoration of cultural relics, combined with technological detection and traditional restoration techniques, the appearance, strength and preservation condition of the artifact were improved, and typical diseases were effectively treated, delaying deterioration. Suggestions for the subsequent storage and exhibition of cultural relics were also provided based on the principle of preventive protection. This protection and research mainly combines the restoration practice of textile relics with the research of costume culture. Through the protection and restoration of the artifact, first-hand data of the artifact was obtained, and combined with in-depth investigation of its structural craftsmanship, material technology, weaving and dyeing patterns, etc., providing detailed reference information for the protection and restoration technology of textile relics and related research on Jianqun. The Jianqun studied in this paper refers to a type of women's skirt with intervals formed by two or more colors, which is one of the typical skirts during the Han, Jin, Sui and Tang dynasties. At the same time, this paper also combines empirical research, multiple evidence methods, and archaeological typology, starting from literature, images and artifacts, and conducting comparative research on the evolution and development of Jianqun during the Han, Jin, Sui and Tang dynasties horizontally and vertically. The three evolution methods of Jianqun's length from short to long, stripes from wide to narrow, and changes in color matching were examined, and the formation of the interval color of Jianqun, the color matching of two or more colors, and the structure of the artifact were compared and summarized. Further interpretation of the social customs and fashion behind the development and popularity of Jianqun. In summary, the prosperity of Jianqun during the Sui and Tang dynasties is a manifestation of the development of social productivity and the progress of textile dyeing and weaving technology, a result of the fusion of multicultural exchanges, and a product of people's aesthetics with the development of the times.
中图分类号：TS941.12
责任者：著 边佳丽 202120001204
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