• 纤维素纤维的改性剂天然染料的固色研究

  
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= Modification for Cellulosic Fibres and Color Fixation of Natural Dyestuffs /李冬霞

出版：北京 :北京服装学院 ,2015

载体形态：65页 :图 ;30cm

丛编：北京服装学院硕士研究生学位论文

附注：专业:纺织材料与纺织品设计 导师:王越平 研究方向：新型纺织品设计与研发

简介：天然染料因其色彩优雅、环保等特性越来越受到人们的青睐。天然染料对蛋白质纤维有着良好的染色效果，但是对纤维素纤维如棉和莫代尔的染色存在上染率低、色牢度差的问题。本文将针对棉和莫代尔两类纤维素纤维织物进行改性以提高天然染料的上染率，并对染色后织物进行固色以期达到良好的色牢度。 本文采用2,3-环氧丙基三甲基氯化铵（GTA）和壳聚糖（CTS）为原料制备壳聚糖HACC改性剂，对改性剂合成的各试剂配比和制备参数以及改性工艺参数进行摸索，通过阳离子改性的方法提高天然染料的上染率。实验结果表明，壳聚糖HACC对纤维素纤维天然染色的上染深度有明显改善。当m1（CTS）︰m2（GTA）︰V1（异丙醇）︰V2（水）=1︰2︰20︰3时，在反应温度为80℃、反应时间为7h、搅拌速度为1500r/min、季铵盐异丙醇溶液的浓度为0.3g/mL的制备条件下，制得HACC的改性效果达到最佳。HACC对棉织物和莫代尔织物的最优改性工艺是：改性剂用量为3%（o.w.f）、碱浓度为2g/L、改性温度为80℃、改性时间为30min。 在改性效果良好的基础上，采用溶胶-凝胶法对天然染料染色的棉和莫代尔织物进行固色，选用钛酸丁酯（TTB）、正硅酸乙酯（TEOS）、3-缩水甘油醚氧基丙基三甲氧基硅烷（GPTS）三种前驱物分别制备不同的醇溶胶固色剂以及以GPTS为前驱物制备的水溶胶固色剂，通过一系列的单因素实验和正交实验得到各种固色剂的最佳制备配比，并优选最优固色剂进行固色工艺的摸索。实验结果表明，三种前驱物制备的醇溶胶固色剂中，GPTS醇溶胶的固色效果明显优于其他两种醇溶胶，皂洗色牢度均能达到4-5级，而且日晒牢度也得到较好地改善，但是织物色彩出现明显增深现象。GPTS水溶胶是较为理想的溶胶固色剂，其最佳制备参数为：水/硅比为10，酸/硅比5×10-5，反应时间为30min，反应温度为常温。最佳固色工艺为采用浸轧法对染色织物进行固色整理，二浸二轧，60℃预烘30min，130℃焙烘5min。经过GPTS水溶胶固色处理后，对本论文中多数天然染料的皂洗、摩擦、日晒色牢度均有较为显著的改善，棉织物的手感并未发生较大改变，但莫代尔织物的手感稍显硬挺。 Natural dyes become more and more popular because of its elegant color, friendly environment and other characteristics. Dyeing effect of natural dyes on protein fibers is better than that on cellulosic fibers like cotton and modal. There have been some problems such as low dyeing rate and poor color fastness for cellulosic fibers. In this paper, cotton and modal was modified to improve the dyeing rate of natural dyes, then dyed fabrics were fixed in order to achieve good color fastness. In this paper, glycidyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (GTA) and chitosan (CTS) were used as raw materials to prepare hydroxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride chistosan (HACC), and the reagent ratio, preparation parameters and modification technology were carried out. Dyeing rate was improved by cationic modification. The experimental results showed that the dye depths of cellulosic fibrics dyeing by natural dyestuffs were increased significantly by using hydroxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride chistosan (HACC). When reaction conditions were m1(CTS): m2(GTA): V1(isopropanol): V2(water)=2:2:20:3, reaction temperature of 80℃, reaction time of 7h, the stirring speed of 1500r/min, the concentration of GTA in isopropanol of 0.3g/mL, the modification effect of HACC was the best. The optimal modification process of HACC on cotton and modal was the concentration of modifier of 3% (o.w.f), the concentration of NaOH of 2g/L at the temperature of 80℃ for 30min. Sol-gel process was applied to elevate the color fastness of cotton and modal fabric dyed by natural dyestuffs after dyeing effect was improved by cationic modification. Tetra-n-butyl titanate(TTB), tetraethyl orthosilicat(TEOS) and 3-glycidoxypropylthrimethoxysilane(GPTS) were choosen to respectively prepare alcosol, meanwhile silicon sol in water was prapared by GPTS as precursor. The four kinds of sol were used as color fixing agents. Optimal preparation conditions of various color fixing agents were obtained base on a series of single factor experiments and orthogonal experiments. The optimal fixing agent was selected to optimize fixing process. Experimental results showed that among three kinds of alcosol prepared by TTB, TEOS and GPTS as precersors respectively, GPTS sol in ethanol was obviously the best. After fixed by GPTS sol in ethanol, soaping fastness of fabric could reach 4-5 grade, meanwhile light fastness have also been greatly improved. However, the fabric color depth increased significantly. As an ideal fixing agent, the optimal preparation parameters of GPTS sol in water were: water/silicon ratio of 10, acid/silicon ratio of 5x10-5, the reaction time of 30min, at the room temperature. The best fixing process was that dyed fabric was immersed in sol by the two times of Baptist-rolling technology, then the fabric was dried at a low temperature 60℃ for 30min, and baked at a high temperature 130℃ for 5min. After dyed fabrics with natural dyestuffs were treated by GPTS sol in water, the color fastness to soap, rubbing and sunlight have been significantly improved. Cotton fabric’s handle seemed to be changed slightly, but handle of modal fabric became not very soft.

并列题名：Modification for Cellulosic Fibres and Color Fixation of Natural Dyestuffs

中图分类号：TS193.62

责任者：李冬霞 著 聂卉 主编 李湜, (1963-) 主编 赵宏, (1953-) 主编 曹连明 朱赛虹, (1956-) 主编 周京南 主编

会议名称：故宫博物院

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